Sloths, trogans and howlers

Panama´s claim to fame is undoubtedly the Panama Canal, an incredible feat of engineering that connects the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, however far less well known is the incredible biodiversity in the tropical forests that cover over 50% of the entire country.  

First glimpse of the Panamanian rainforest

With Saecwen safely tied up in Shelter Bay Marina, alongside dozens of other yachts preparing for their canal transit and adventures into the Pacific, we took the opportunity to get to know some of the local wildlife - and fulfill Charlie's birthday wish - to see a sloth!

Gato Solo

Shelter Bay Marina sits in the middle of an old fort that was built by occupying Americans to protect the canal, and is surrounded by a lush and lively rainforest, into which we would often foray when we had had enough of varnishing. Our first wildlife encounter was with the ´Gatos Solos´ (lone cats), which are a type of raccoon with a large furry tail and a long snouty nose.  The males leave their tribe when they are just two years old leaving the females with their young.  They are bold and curious and within a few hundred metres of the marina they happily go about their business, unperturbed by the passing two legged sailor folk.

Howler monkey

Our loudest neighbours were the howler monkeys, notorious for their mighty roar heard throughtout the day, and on occasions could be spotted leaping through the jungle canopy with their long tails. The giant mahogany trees and tropical figs were also home to the white faced capuchin monkeys, which were slightly smaller and shier. 

Black Panamanian Hawk

The most curious creatures we came across in this local forest were the yellow rumped caciques, bright yellow feathered birds who build nests that hang down from the palm trees and sway in the wind safe from the local predators such as the common black Panamanian hawk,  which we also spotted nearby.  There are more species of tree in Panama than the whole of North America and this diversity is largely due to the history of the isthmus formed millions of years ago.

Yellow Rumped Cacique nests

Tectonic plate movements and volcanic activity brought the two previously separate Americas together, forming a bridge which enabled the flora and fauna to move up from the South and down from the North, converging on the isthmus and creating an incredible abundance of biodiversity. The three toed sloth, amongst many other exotic species, evolved in Panama.

White faced Capuchin monkey

The cultural diversity of Panama is also fascinating and the country is home to seven very different indigenous groups, the Ngäbe, Buglé, Guna, Emberá, Wounaan, Bri Bri, and Naso Tjër Di who mostly live in the protected forested territories. These communities make up over 10% of the population of Panama and in many cases appear to have a subsistence life keeping their cultures and traditions very much alive and in harmony with the forests.

Red Tanagers in the Gamboa Nature Reserve

In the Gamboa Nature Reserve located in the centre of the country we passed by an Emberá village adjacent to a Bri Bri community, differing in language, culture and tradition but both with simple thatched roof houses and dugout canoes for transport and fishing. While ecotourism is relatively underdeveloped in Panama, compared to it´s neighbour Costa Rica, it appears that many of the communities do generate income from the growing tourist trade. 

Crimson Crested Woodpecker

Charlie´s birthday weekend was spent in the Gamboa Nature Reserve, 340 acres of primary forest, looking over the junction of the Chagres river feeding into the Gatun lake. We encountered several stunning species in the reserve, including the bright blue morphous butterfly, the crimson crested woodpecker and the crimson tanager. 

We were also lucky enough to spot the black throated trogan, a rare bird with a beautiful array of turquoise and blue feathers and a bright yellow chest. The colours of the birds are outstanding and equally impressive were the brightly coloured and highly poisonous dart frogs we met in the safe confines of a small frog sanctuary.  The real prize however was spotting a three toed sloth high up in the canopy, very well camouflaged by the leaves, hanging from two legs and using one of his arms and very long toes to have a good old scratch.  Sloths sleep for 18 hours a day so it was a rare treat and great birthday present to see one active.

Black Throated Trogan (back)

Panama is home to over 17 nature reserves, primary rainforest, beautiful coral atolls on the Caribbean side, and volcanic islands off the Pacific coast as well as a wealth of cultural diversity. The rich ethnic melting pot of the Panamanians comprises some of the friendliest people we´ve yet to meet on our adventures.  

Black Throated Trogan (front)

So Saecwen's  three week ¨confinement¨ in Shelter Bay Marina waiting for our slot to transit the canal, whilst initially greeted with frustration, was a blessing in disguise, providing us with some time to explore this wonderful country, albeit only scratching its surface (like the sloth). 

We must come back.